“Wagyu” covers many breeds and regions. Here we lay out the basics of Japanese Wagyu, and introduce our signature — the rare Japanese Black Wagyu from Hanamaki, Iwate: “Hanamaki Kuro-Budo Beef.”
“Wagyu” refers only to four Japanese breeds improved over many years — Japanese Black, Japanese Brown (Akaushi), Japanese Shorthorn and Japanese Polled — and their crossbreeds. The often-confused term “domestic beef (kokusan)” means any cattle raised in Japan for a certain period, including foreign breeds and Holsteins. In other words, Wagyu is a very limited, distinguished category within domestic beef.
The appeal of Wagyu is, above all, the quality of its fat. Japanese Black fat in particular has a low melting point and spreads as if melting in the mouth. The balance of fine marbling (sashi) and the lean umami that grows as you chew is highly acclaimed worldwide. In recent years “WAGYU” has grown popular overseas and exports are rising.
Beef quality is expressed by the grade set by the Japan Meat Grading Association, shown as “A5,” “A4,” etc. — a yield grade (A–C) combined with a meat-quality grade (5–1). But grading is only a standard for appearance and marbling; actual deliciousness varies greatly with bloodline, feed and rearing. That is exactly why, even among Japanese Black, differences in region and rearing have produced many distinctive “brand beef” across the country.
Wagyu raised in Japan is broadly divided into the following four breeds. Most of what we usually eat as “Wagyu” is Japanese Black.
The representative breed making up most of Japan's Wagyu; nearly all the marbled meat we picture when we hear “Wagyu” is this. Its hallmarks are beautiful fine marbling in the lean and a melt-in-the-mouth quality from fat rich in low-melting-point oleic acid. The sweet aroma that rises on heating (“wagyu-ko”) is another charm. Many famous brands — Matsusaka, Kobe, Omi, Yonezawa — are based on Japanese Black. Our “Hanamaki Kuro-Budo Beef” is this breed too.
A brown-coated breed improved from the red cattle of Kumamoto and Kochi, also called “Akaushi.” It has less fat than Japanese Black, but its lean is packed with umami (free amino acids), giving a fine balance of marbling and lean. Not heavy, so you can eat plenty without feeling weighed down — increasingly popular with those seeking lean umami and a healthier choice.
A lean-focused breed raised mainly in the northern Tohoku region such as Iwate and Aomori. Suited to the traditional method of summer mountain grazing and winter village rearing, it grows freely on wide pastures. Fat is modest, but in return a deep lean umami and robust, meaty flavor grow as you chew. Amid the recent lean-meat boom, it is favored by those who want the true taste of meat.
A hornless breed born in Yamaguchi by crossing native Wagyu with the British Aberdeen Angus. With very few head raised, it is by far the rarest of the four Wagyu breeds — a “phantom Wagyu.” Fat is on the lighter side, but the lean umami is rich and deepens the more you chew — one for connoisseurs. It rarely reaches the market.
The deliciousness of Wagyu comes down to the quality of its fat. Beyond the texture on the tongue, Wagyu is savored as a whole, including the aroma that rises to the nose.
Wagyu fat is rich in oleic acid with a low melting point. The moment it enters your mouth, body heat melts it — the true nature of that “melting” texture.
When heated, the fat produces “lactones,” sweet aroma compounds reminiscent of peach and coconut — a mellow fragrance unique to Wagyu.
Fine fat woven into the lean creates tenderness and juiciness. The unity of lean and fat is the charm of Wagyu.
TEPPAN MAFIA grills simply on the teppan to draw out this aroma and texture to the fullest — never masking it with elaborate sauces, delivering the power of the ingredient directly.
The familiar “A5,” “A4” marks come from the Japan Meat Grading Association's standard, combining a “yield grade” with a “meat-quality grade.”
The proportion of usable meat obtained from one animal. A is the best yield grade.
Judged on four points — marbling, meat color/luster, firmness/texture, and fat color/quality. The grade is set by the lowest of these, with 5 the highest.
Marbling is judged on a 12-step scale, No.1–12. The higher the number, the stronger the marbling.
One thing to remember: A5 is a “grade,” not a “ranking of deliciousness.” For those who enjoy lean umami, choosing without fixating on grade is also an option. More than numbers, we value the “true deliciousness” created by bloodline, feed and grilling.
Even the same Wagyu varies in fat and texture by cut. Here are representative cuts that shine on the teppan.
“Brand beef” means cattle meeting standards each region sets for breed, origin, bloodline, fattening period, grade and more. Most are Japanese Black; even the same breed grows into remarkably distinctive flavors depending on water, climate, feed and the producer's care. Hundreds of brand beef exist nationwide, each cherished as a “local taste” reflecting its land. Here are some representative ones (*Japan's three great Wagyu are often Matsusaka, Kobe and Omi; some list Yonezawa in place of Omi).
The star at TEPPAN MAFIA Kichijoji is the Japanese Black Wagyu raised in Hanamaki, Iwate: “Hanamaki Kuro-Budo Beef.” Raised on the pomace of wine grapes as feed, it is a rare Wagyu that seldom reaches the market. Among the four breeds it is Japanese Black, and with the grape story unique to Hanamaki layered on, it becomes an animal born only in this land.
Hanamaki's world-class winery “Edelwein.” The grape pomace born in its winemaking (fermented grape feed) is given at 300g+ per day for over three months. The pomace smells good, the cattle take to it well, and it is said to have a calming effect. The polyphenols in grapes are thought to nurture light, fine fat and a clean finish.
Only a very few Japanese Black fattening farms in Hanamaki raise this beef. Output is small and it is not regularly sold in supermarkets, flowing mainly to member restaurants. Hard to find at a butcher's counter, it is truly a Wagyu “known to those in the know.” To be able to taste it in Kichijoji is itself a rare experience.
The name “Kuro-Budo” comes from the fable “Kuro-Budo” by Kenji Miyazawa, the poet and children's author born in Hanamaki. In the tale a calf eats grapes, so the name fits this grape-raised beef perfectly. Even the old spelling “budau” carries on Miyazawa's world. A Wagyu through which you feel not only flavor but the culture of the land.
| Breed | Japanese Black (one of the 4 Wagyu breeds) |
|---|---|
| Origin | Hanamaki, Iwate |
| Feed | Fattened on Edelwein grape pomace (fermented grape feed), 300g+ per day for over three months |
| Meat character | Little gaminess, light fat and rich flavor — a gentle taste |
| Rarity | Only a few local producers; rarely sold in supermarkets |
| Origin of the name | From Kenji Miyazawa's fable “Kuro-Budo” |
Hanamaki, Iwate, birthplace of Kuro-Budo Beef, is the hometown of poet and children's author Kenji Miyazawa. His fable “Kuro-Budo,” the source of the name, describes a calf eating grapes — mirroring this grape-raised beef exactly.
The Ohasama district of Hanamaki, home to “Edelwein,” a pioneer of Japanese wine, is a land of grapes and wine. By using the grape pomace from winemaking as feed, local resources are circulated without waste. The polyphenols in grapes are thought to nurture light, clear fat and a clean finish.
A rare animal that seldom reaches the market, flowing only to member restaurants. Please taste Kuro-Budo Beef — clothed in the culture and story of its land — on the teppan in Kichijoji.
As a Japanese × Italian restaurant, TEPPAN MAFIA cares about pairing Wagyu with wine. Here is the basic thinking.
Match the sweet fat with a medium- to full-bodied red; the tannins cleanly cut the fat.
For lean umami, a red with gentle tannins and fine aroma lifts the ingredient's taste.
For dishes with wasabi and Japanese aromatics, sparkling or an aromatic white is also recommended.
We grill the rare Japanese Black “Hanamaki Kuro-Budo Beef” on the teppan right before you. Paired with Italian sauces and wine, enjoy it as a special dish for anniversaries and dates.
Yes. Hanamaki Kuro-Budo Beef is Japanese Black, one of the four Wagyu breeds. Its defining feature is being raised on grape pomace as feed.
“Wagyu” is limited to Japan's four breeds (such as Japanese Black) and their crosses, while “domestic beef” means any cattle raised in Japan. Wagyu is a limited category within domestic beef.
At TEPPAN MAFIA Kichijoji (3 min from the Atre East Exit of JR Kichijoji Station), served as teppan steak or in courses. Please ask when booking.
No. A5 indicates the yield and meat-quality “grade,” not a ranking of taste. We suggest choosing by preference, such as lean umami. We value the flavor created by bloodline, feed and grilling over the grade number.
It is the sweet aroma reminiscent of peach and coconut produced from heated Wagyu fat. Due to compounds called lactones, it is considered a source of Wagyu's unique deliciousness.